


Robert Parker on
Morlet's 2007 vintage -
"I'll keep my tasting notes relatively short since the
production of most of these wines is small. The Chardonnay production
for the Ma Douce and Ma Princesse is 200-360 cases, but the Coup
de Coeur is only three barrels, or 75 cases. The Pinot Noirs are
all four barrels, or 100 cases, so notes are limited, but there
are 480 cases of the absolutely sensational La Proportion Doree
and just under 200 cases of each of the Cabernet Sauvignons. These
are all the projects of well-known Luc Morlet, whose brother is
the principal winemaker at Peter Michael after replacing Luc himself,
who now has a consulting firm, in addition to this project under
his own family name. Not surprisingly, Luc Morlet's Chardonnays
all emerge from old Wente clones and have a style not terribly
different from what one might expect from Peter Michael. His motto
at the winery is, "Quality without compromise," and
one sees that throughout these personality-filled wines."
La Proportion Doree, Sonoma County
(Bordeaux Style White Wine)
2007 vintage "One of the most profound blends of
Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and in this case, 2% Muscadelle, is
the 2007 La Proportion Doree (64% Semillon, 34% Sauvignon Blanc,
and 2% Muscadelle). An extraordinary nose of waxy, honeyed grapefruit,
melons, figs, and quince is superb. In the mouth, a liqueur of
rocks intermixed with quinine, quince, and waxy notes continues
to cascade over the palate. This is a sensational, dry, incredibly
complex wine that shows the potential that blends such as this
can achieve. Drink it over the next 4-5 years". 95
points
2006 vintage - "One would be hard-pressed to find
a better Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend than the 2006 La Proportion
Doree, which is a blend of two-thirds Semillon and one-third Sauvignon
with a touch of Muscadelle added in. Barrel-fermented and aged
in wood, there are 580 cases of this wine, which has a gorgeous
nose of honeyed figs, lemon grass, melon, and citrus oil. A full-bodied,
dry, beautifully textured, superb white Bordeaux look-alike, it
should drink well for 5-6 years." 94 points
"Luc Morlet has been traveling a lot, with his older brother taking over for him at Peter Michael, where he still remains in a quasi-consulting role. He seemed to be settled at Staglin Family Vineyards, but that lasted only a few months, and he is doing what he wants now, producing his own wines. These are the debut releases. (While there will be two Chardonnays added to the portfolio, most of this is from the Sonoma Coast.) These are very impressive wines."
2007 Ma Princesse Chardonnay, Russian
River Valley
"The 2007 Chardonnay Ma Princesse is even more
impressive. This comes from the Goldridge soils of the Russian
River basin and has incredibly rich, honeyed nectarine notes intermixed
with poached pear, brioche, and spice. The wine is full-bodied,
with superb tart acid buttressing the wine's powerful, formidable,
lean, endowed personality. The length is striking. It should drink
well for 7-8 years. There are only 75 cases of this selection
from the three best barrels in the cellar, and that wine has the
most minerality, structure, and firmness of the three Chardonnays,
but who will ever be able to find it?"
(90-92) points
2007 Mon Chevalier Cabernet Sauvignon,
Knights Valley
"All three Cabernet Sauvignons (close to 200 cases
of each) are impressive wines. The Knight's Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,
the 2007 Mon Chevalier, has notes of graphite, crushed rocks,
blue and black fruits as well as terrific intensity, all in a
style not totally dissimilar from what Luc Morlet made for his
boss Peter Michael under the name Les Pavots. From a high hillside
elevation in Knight's Valley, this Cabernet Sauvignon should drink
well for 15 or more years." (90-92) points
2007 Coeur de Vallee T0-Kalon Cabernet
Sauvignon, Oakville
"All three Cabernet Sauvignons (close to 200
cases of each) are impressive wines. From the To-Kalon Vineyard,
the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Coeur de Vallee is a blend of 76%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cabernet Franc. Another compelling
wine from Luc Morlet, the seamless integration of acidity, tannin,
alcohol, and wood are all present in this deep purple-colored
wine, which is made in small fermenters and has beautiful purity
and depth." (93-95) points
2007 Passionnement Cabernet Sauvignon,
Oakville
"All three Cabernet Sauvignons (close to 200
cases of each) are impressive wines. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
Passionement is from the Oakville Corridor. It displays beautiful
licorice, creme de cassis, cedar, and smoke in a full-bodied,
opulent, flamboyant, and exuberant style. This wine should turn
out to be terrific and drink well for 20+ years." (94-96)
points
2007 Bouquet Garni Syrah, Bennet Valley
"Notes of steak tartare, tar, pepper, and lard jump from
the dense purple-colored 2007 Syrah Bouquet Garni from Bennett
Vineyard. It is structured, very northern Rhone-like, and clearly
a cool-climate Syrah. This wine should drink well for up to a
decade." (91-94) points