As the story goes, the Slow Food movement was founded in Italy in 1986 in response the opening of the first McDonalds in Rome. Since then, the organization has spread around the world, with some 800 chapters in 100 countries.

In explaining the essential philosophy of Slow Food, their website outlines the following;

"The fundamental importance of conviviality and the right to pleasure are still the basic principles upon which all Slow Food events and activities are built. The movement believes that any traditional product encapsulates the flavours of its region of origin, not to mention local customs and ancient production techniques. With this in mind, Slow Food is working not only to protect the historic, artistic and environmental heritage of places of gastronomic pleasure (cafés, inns, bistros), but also to safeguard the food and agricultural heritage (crop biodiversity, artisan techniques, sustainable agriculture, rural development, food traditions)."

So why is this relevant to what we're trying to do? The mass commercialization of the wine industry threatens to impose homogenized taste and restricted selection on the unsuspecting wine drinker. In contrast, our intention is to offer a selection of wines that reflect a sense of place. Wines that are authentic, individualistic, and distinctive. Wines that reflect the character and passion of the winemaker.

We believe that smaller wineries, estate-oriented and family-owned, provide the best source of characterful wines that deserve attention. Slow Food is all about what they call 'eco-gastronomy', built around the concepts of biodiversity, sustainable farming, and artisanal production. These are the same principles that provide us with a healthy, dynamic, challenging world of wine. Of course, there are no economies of scale in this league. We have to pay a little more to support these ideals, but the investment is insignificant when compared to the return. For this generation of wine lovers, and the next.

We take great pride in presenting our portfolio, and hope you enjoy our selections.

Anne Jasper & Rob Groh
Toronto, Canada

To find out more about Slow Food, go to www.toronto.slowfood.ca

To learn about the Stratford Chefs School, go to www.stratfordchef.on.ca

The coastal mountains of Ascoli Piceno are incredibly beautiful. Rugged hillsides are interspersed with forests, wheat, grain, and field upon field of brilliant sunflowers,until finally, at the higher elevations, a few small vineyards and olive groves appear. The clay-sand soil will hold some moisture,but at this altitude, there will be no rain, and no water for irrigation by the end of July. The vineyards of Cocci Grifoni are planted with indigenous varieties; Passerina, Pecorino, Verdicchio, as well as some Trebbiano. The primary red is Montepulciano in addition to smaller quantities of Sangiovese, and only recently, some Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot.

Now in his sixties, the remarkable Guido Cocci Grifoni continues to plan for the long term. Famous for his stubborn insistence, even in the 1960s, that modern winemaking could transform the indigenous grapes into wine of the highest calibre, he believed that the wines of his region should be a unique expression of place rather than an interpretation of an international style. In 2001 his determination was affirmed by the awarding of two new DOCs which recognize his vision. 'Offida Pecorino' is a white wine DOC for 100% Pecorino from the area surrounding the village of Offida, including Cocci Grifoni's vineyards. Likewise, 'Offida Passerina' is a sparkling wine DOC for the same region. Passerina is a grape particularly well suited to an elegant style of sparkling wine. In recognizing a new DOC, the Italian authorities require the commitment of a minimum of ten vineyards and producers supporting the varietal and the wine, a tremendous show of support for Cocci Grifoni's dedication to the almost-lost varieties. Until now, Cocci Grifoni has been the sole producer of Passerina sparkling wine, now guaranteed a future.

In their 2000 edition of the definitive guide to Italian wine, Gambero Rosso/Slow Food introduce the section on Cocci Grifoni as follows:  "Guido Cocci Grifoni, legendary winegrower of the Piceno area, who is assisted by his daughters Paola & Marilena, is a point of reference for local producers." Paola has assumed responsibility for winemaking, and Marilena for marketing and administration, leaving their father to oversee the vineyards.

"The Falerio dei Colli Ascolani 'Vigneti San Basso', straw yellow tinged with green, is redolent of hazelnut and green apple, while the palate shows good balance between softness and acidity.  The unfailingly appealing Passerina Brut, as good as ever, provides further proof of the suitability of his variety for making sparkling wine.  The Rosso Piceno Superiore Vigna Messieri's fairly concentrated ruby hue leads to a nose with lots of ripe fruit and notes of coffee and vanilla; the long palate promises good development over time."  - Gambero Rosso / Slow Food .

www.tenutacoccigrifoni.it

Located in San Pietro in Cariano, the heart of the Classico district, north-west of Verona.  This excellent estate comprises 20 hectares in Valpolicella Classico and 15 hectares in Bardolino Classico.  The Nicolis family were noted grape-growers for many years. Angelo's 3 sons helped their father in the pursuit of top-quality estate-bottled winemaking, and since his death they have acheived great success and recognition for their efforts. Giuseppe is very active in the association of Valpolicella growers, together with such luminaries as Allegrini and Brigaldara, in pushing the quality envelope. Stressing the best clones of the indigenous grapes, and working the best vineyard locations, focussing on quality over quantitiy, they are leading the new wave of top-quality produceres.

All vineyards are harvested by hand.  Fermentation is temperature-controlled.  The best vineyards are bottled separately - Vigneto Seccal is the vineyard-designated, ripasso-method Valpolicella, and Ambrosan is the vineyard-designated Amarone, partially aged in barrique.  Grapes for all but Amarone are de-stemmed prior to maceration.

Seccal, the vineyard-designated, ripasso-method Valpolicella is produced from the traditional grape varieties corvina, rondinella, and molinara, harvested from an exceptional vineyard which provides fruit of great concentration and character. The wine undergoes a second fermentation on the lees of the recently-fermented Recioto della Valpolicella, providing extra fullness, increased tannic structure, and softer acidity. Characteristic aromas of almonds, dried cherry, and spice are realized in a full-bodied wine perfectly suited to a variety of grilled meats, pasta in tomato sauce, and fowl with fruit glazes or sauces.

Gambero Rosso/Slow Food consistently awards Nicolis' Amarone and Ambrosan their highest awards. In October 2002 we learned that Nicolis has again been awarded 'Tre Bicchieri', this time for the 1998 Ambrosan.  The Valpolicella is also noted for quality (1 Glass) and value.  'Nicolis' (Ambrosan)... has a complete, chiseled style in which the combination of the polyphenols with the other substances does not leave the alcohol exposed to support the wine's entire structure on it's own; this style is anything but decadent.  Oak is evident on the nose, but does not overwhelm it; instead, one finds an exemplary freshness with mineral notes and hints of berries and almond.  The best of it however, is the palate, which displays a very attractive tightness of flavour.  The bouquet carries through exquisitely, and the fruit evolves with all the vigour one expects from an Amarone; the finish is of sumptuous length.  The basic Amarone is also a great success:  it is more charming and immediate than the Ambrosan but no less rich or persistent."

One of the new breed of 'Super-Venetians', Testal is a truly special wine. In a unique procedure, Corvina grapes, representing about 94% of the final blend, are allowed to ripen to almost late-harvest maturity. At this point, however, rather than harvesting the fruit, the stems are cut but the bunches are left hanging to dry on the vine. Cutting the stems captures the sugars in the fruit, preventing the fruit from nourishing the vine as it approaches winter dormancy. As the grapes raisin in the late autumn sun, flavours are concentrated in much the same way as the grapes dried for making Amarone, although not to the same extent. This semi-dried Corvina is blended with a bit of Cabernet and Merlot, and aged in barrique. Testal is a thoroughly modern wine, with a nod to the history of the region. Quite a drama.
 
www.vininicolis.com

Brothers Graziano & Sergio Prà began bottling their own wine in the early 1980s, with a focus on exceptional quality. They are among a handful of estates leading the wave of producers making profound Soave from low yields, the best vineyards sites - on the hills rather than the plain, and the best clones of Garganega. Prà's vineyards are located in the commune of Monteforte d'Alpone, within the beautiful hillside 'Classico' zone defined in 1927. This artisanal producer bottles under 10,000 cases annually, exclusively from estate-grown fruit. In his benchmark work on the the wines of Northern Italy Barolo to Valpolicella, Nicholas Belfrage writes; 'Brothers Graziano & Sergio Pra form the ideal double act, Sergio being a dedicated vineyard man while Graziano displays a canny technique in the cantina. Their Soave Classico is, indeed, one of the classic expressions of the genre year after year, while cru Monte Grande brings an extra complexity & structure to the equation.'

When DOC status was granted in 1968, pressure from the larger producers allowed for inclusion of more than 4,000 ha of vineyards in the fertile plain, and no differentiation between Soave & Soave Classico. Today, less than 25% of Soave is produced in the Classico zone. Traditionally, Soave was made from Garganega & Trebbiano di Soave (a high quality, aromatic local clone of Trebbiano). In the past few decades, Trebbiano di Soave has been replaced in many vineyards with Trebbiano Toscana, a more productive (ie. profitable) and much less interesting variety. Finally, with the 2002 vintage, 'Soave Superiore' has been granted DOCG status to recognize higher quality wines from the best vineyards in the heart of the region. The new classification includes vineyards in the Classico zone, as well as hillside vineyards in the neighboring area (now known as Colli Scaligeri). Permitted grape varieties are: Garganega (minimum 70%), Trebbiano di Soave, Chardonnay, & Pinot Bianco. Trebbiano Toscana is excluded. Trellising is specifed as Guyot or Cordon Spur - the traditional Pergola Veronese is not permitted. Minimum alcohol for Soave Superiore DOCG is 12%, Riserva must be at least 12.5%. By contrast, Soave DOC requires only 10.5%, indicating less ripe fruit allowed to be used..

There is now clear labelling of quality classification in Soave - Soave DOC, Soave Superiore DOCG, Soave Superiore Riserva DOCG. Recioto di Soave, the sweet wine of the region also has the higher classification of DOCG. In discussing the changes with Graziano Prà he explained to me that he has no intention of renaming his wines to conform with the changes in regulation because he has followed stricter quality guidlines from the very beginning, and because he is not changing his vineyard and production methods, he sees no reason to change his labels.

Prà produces only four distinctly superior wines. Soave Classico ,100% Garganega, is a pure expression of varietal - fresh, floral, mineral. Clearly competition for top quality Chablis. Soave Classico Superiore 'Vigneto Monte Grande', Garganega with a bit of Pinot Blanc & Chardonnay, is fermented & aged in large, older botti, lending a richness & supple texture to this very elegant wine. In contrast, the dramatic Soave Classico Superiore 'Colle Sant'Antonio', 100% Garganega, fermented & aged in barrique, complementing the richness of the later-harvested fruit. A miniscule quantity of sublime Recioto delle Fontaine is also produced. Contruction of the new cellar is almost complete, providing space for extended cellaring of their age-worthy Monte Grande.

Gambero Rosso/Slow Food honoured the quality & character of Prà's wines with 'Tre Bicchieri' for both the 2000 and 2002 Soave Classico Superiore 'Vigneto Monte Grande'.

Lucio Mosole is an interesting, man. When he discovered farming in his late 20s, he knew he had found his vocation. Leaving the family construction business behind, he purchased a wine estate in the district of Lison-Pràmaggiore, in the easternmost corner of the Veneto, about 30 minutes north-east of Venice. His vision is clearly long-term - Lucio has spent the last 15 years improving and replanting the property. He has travelled extensively, finally developing his vineyards on a Bordeaux-inspired model. Of course the wines are true to their location, but the vineyard management and trellising are based on lessons learned in France.

While Lucio takes special pride, and deservedly so, in his reserve bottlings - 'Ad Nonam' Merlot and 'Hora Sexta' Cabernet, his entire range is very high quality. Typical of the eastern Veneto and Friuli, Mosole produces a wide range of wines, including Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Tocai Italico, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Refosco. Interestingly, much of what was originally thought to be Cabernet Franc is actually Carmenère, a somewhat obscure Bordeaux varietal. Mosole's DOC wines carry the 'Lison-Pràmaggiore' designation (a zone which overlaps the border of Veneto & Friuli-Venezia Giulia) while his IGT wines carry the 'Veneto Orientale' designation.

The Mosole estate comprises 32 hectares, 30 planted to vineyard. The entire production is estate grown and bottled. Only one vineyard block remains to be replanted to Mosole's standards. He has researched and selected the best clones and varieties for his land, and is moving to exclusive use of Guyot training.

Lucio Mosole set a goal 15 years ago, and he has worked tirelessly towards it. Gradually improving his vineyards and cellar, he is producing some of the finest wines of his region.
 
www.mosole.com

Quite a family, this. Lidia Bastianich is the chef-patron of seminal Italian restaurants Felidia and Becco in New York, & Lidia's in Kansas City. She's also a best-selling cookbook author, and host of two cooking shows on PBS; Lidia's Italian Table and Lidia's Italian American Kitchen. Her son Joseph Bastianich is the co-author of one of the definitive books on Italian wines, Vino Italiano, The Regional Wines of Italy. Joseph is also owner of some of the most important restaurants in America, in partnership with Mario Batali, including Babbo, Lupa, Esca, Otto, and the wine shop, Italian Wine Merchants. You couldn't be criticized for thinking them a family of overacheivers.

Like the restaurants, books, and TV shows, when Lidia & Joseph decided to get into winegrowing, they took no half-measures. In 1998 they purchased a 24 hectare estate in the DOC of Colli Orientali del Friuli, the the region considered to produce the best white wines in Italy, and not far from Lidia's hometown of Istria on the Adriatic coast. With vines up to 50 years old, they now have some of the oldest vineyards in their region. Low yields, densely-planted vineyards, all the vineyard work is done by hand, each vine producing only enough fruit for one bottle of wine. They have hired Maurizio Castelli as consulting winemaker for his dedication to the highest standards while preserving & promoting the essential character of the region & its native grapes. Total production of the estate is about 7000 cases, almost two-thirds of which is the flagship Vespa Bianco.

The flagship wine, Vespa Bianco, is a 'super-white' blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon & Picolit. Half the wine is fermented in wood, half in stainless. It's a serious wine, showcasing all the power, complexity & drama attainable in the region, in the model of Jermann's Vintage Tunina or the best of Livio Feluga or Schioppetto. Remarkably, in every vintage including the first bottling in 1999, Slow Food/Gambero Rosso has awarded Vespa Bianco their top award of Tre Bicchieri. Bastianich's Tocai 'Blue' is pure Tocai Friulano, the signature grape of the region, vinified in stainless to preserve the freshness & minerality of the wine. Tocai Plus is a truly remarkable wine. It's a late harvested Tocai Friulano from one hectare of the estates oldest vine. Some of the fruit is allowed to dry on the vine, resulting in partial appassimento, with some botrytis. The appassimento fruit is barrel-fermented, then blended with a portion of wine from previous vintages in the manner of the Spanish Solera technique which is refreshed & continued from vintage to vintage. The extraction is phenomenal, and the wine unlike anything we've tasted.

Bastianich also produces two red wines. Vespa Rosso is a blend of Merlot, Refosco & Cabernet Franc, fermented in open-top tonneaux. Calabrone Rosso is produced only in the best vintages. The ripest clusters of Refosco, Pignolo & Cabernet Franc are dried in the loft for 4 to 8 weeks, in the appassiment style of Amarone, producing a powerfully extracted wine meant for matching with robust dishes.

Conrad Schmitt and his daughter Vicky Schmitt-Vitali farm 4.5 hectares in the village of Panzano in Chianti. The Schmitt family purchased this exquisites estate in the heart of the Chianti Classico district in 1993. Le Fonti has earned a reputation for excellence and commitment to outstanding vineyard management.

Their tiny estate produces only about 15,000 bottles (1,250 cases) annually, typically split between 2 wines, a Chianti Classico Riserva, and a Super-Tuscan sangiovese / cabernet sauvignon called Fontissimo. Sangiovese is the primary grape planted here, supplemented with cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Both Chianti Classico Riserva and Fontissimo mature in French oak for up to 20 months prior to release. As new vineyarsds are planted Le Fonti will produce a Chianti Classico 'Normale' from the young vines. The Schmidt-Vitali's have recently completed comstruction of a beautiful new cellar which will allow them to increase production to about 25,000 bottles. This is a small estate, and every aspect of production, from weeding the vineyards to bottling the wine is done by Vicky and her husband Guido Vitali. This is clearly a hands-on operation, and the drive for quality is unflagging. The famous oenologist Stefano Chioccioli consults.

These are bold, dramatic wines. The goal is to produce wines which successfully balance power and finesse. Le Fonti is nearing the end of a decade-long process of replanting their vineyards with the best clones for their location and better trellising.

Panzano is considered by many to be a Premier Cru Chianti Village, with a reputation for vineyards capable of producing wines of remarkable power and finesse. Le Fonti's neighbours include Fontodi, Cennatoio, Monte Bernardi, Castello di Rampolla, and other top estates. Conrad Schmitt is the president of the local growers association.

www.fattorialefonti.it 

Giovanna Tiezzi and her husband Stefano Borsa (former manager of Castello di Volpaia) create truly special wines from 10 heactares in the commune of Castenuovo Berardenga. Castenuovo Berardenga is one of the districts that falls both within and outside the Chianti Classico region. Pâcina is in the district of Colli Senesi - the hills of Siena, though their land literally borders the Classico district, and the soil is identical. The boundary at this location was decided when the Sienese duke refused to have anything to do with the Florentine riff-raff defining the territory for Chianti Classico.

Pâcina is a remarkable place, and Giovanna & Stefano are remarkable people. The villa, actually a 12th century monastery, has been in Giovanna's family for generations. It is now home to their extended family, currently including at least three generations. This sense of family and history have lead Giovanna & Stefano to a biological approach to farming designed to preserve their heritage for future generations. In the vineyard, this means not only chemical-free methods, but also allowing the vines to find their own balance of healthy production. Young vines are trained and stressed to provide appropriate yield, but old vines are allowed to set their own levels. This non-interventionist methodology continues in the cellar, where you will find very little stainless steel, and no modern technology. Rather, glass-lined concrete fermentation tanks, indigenous yeast and bacteria, and no temperature control. Stefano and Giovanna have learned that a heathly, natural environment provides fruit of exceptional character and a heartiness that permits simplicity in the entire process. Pâcina is fortunate to have 10 hectares of vineyards in the heart of 60 hectares of various crops and pasture which isolate the vines from outside contamination.

This is an exceptional estate, where family and history provide perspective that is reflected in the character of the resultant wines. Pâcina is one of the group of small estates we are honoured to represent who have been inspired and influenced by Maurizio Castelli. Including Pâcina, Le Boncie, Le Macioche, Tomas & Giesen and Bastianich, these young winemakers subscribe to Castelli's philosophy of improving vineyard and winemaking practices to provide the best possible results, while preserving the integrity & authenticity of the place of origin, respecting the tradition of the region.

Pâcina crafts 2 wines, Chianti Colli Senesi (blending sangiovese with the historic ciliegiolo grape) and La Malena, a syrah / sangiovese Super-Tuscan. Not to be confused with the typically lighter Chianti Colli Senesi, Pâcina's wines are expressive, elegant, beautifully-crafted wines that will stand with the best of Tuscany. Production is miniscule, only about 12,000 bottles of Chianti (1,000 cases) and 3,000 bottles of La Malena (250 cases) annually.

www.pacina.it 
 

Giovanna Morganti is quickly becoming recognized as one of the best of the new generation of Tuscan winemakers.

Another disciple of Maurizio Castelli, she worked with him at San Felice, (where her father was the esteemed managing director during their glory years). Giovanna's small estate is across the road from San Felice, comprising only three hectares of vineyards. Her only wine is a Chianti Classico called 'Le Trame' (The Intrigues) signifying the maneuvering required for her to acquire the land.

The vineyard comprises only 3 hectares (about 7 acres), which yield only about 13,000 bottles annually. In the tricky 2001 vintage, Giovanna produced only 8,500 bottles of excuisite wine. Planted to very high density, 7000 vines per hectare, the vineyard is primarily Sangiovese, with only a few rows of Fogliatonda for blending. Fermentation takes place in traditional open-top wooden tanks. Gambero Rosso comments on Le Trame's 'great, and on occaison sublime, fruit', and Giovanna's 'traditional values & modern technique.' This is surely authentic Chianti Classico, impressive for its purety and grace. The vineyard is farmed organically, and production methods embrace biodynamic philosophy.

As you can imagine, our allocation is very small. We have been waiting for three years for Giovanna to allocate any wine to us, but we credit her with introducing us to Giovanna Tiezzi (Pâcina) and Stefano Borsa (Tomas & Giesen) with whom she shares a philosophy of non-interventionalist winemaking, expressing the authenticity and character of the region.
 

In the northernmost part of the Chianti Classico district, directly south of Florence, Torraccia di Presura belonged to the 19th century villa 'La Presura' until 1986, when it was acquired by Paolo Osti. The ancient soil is lean, light, and stony, leading to vine stress that bears complex fruit. The microclimate is warm due to the low altitude, assuring excellent ripeness in most vintages.

We love the 'authenticity' of the wines. The fruit, the soil and the acidity all contribute to wines that show the essential character of Chianti Classico. Il Tarocco Chianti Classico is Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero (10%), matured in small French oak "botti". Chianti Classico Riserva is 100% Sangiovese, from 20+ year-old vines, again matured in small French oak "botti". The Super-Tuscan 'Lucciolaio' is 80% Sangiovese from 25+ year-old vines and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured 18 months in barrique.

Il Tarocco's style is traditional rather than modern, stressing balance and finesse over raw power. To me, it remains the most charming, characteristic and versatile expressions of Chianti Classico.

Paolo and Laura Osti have made Torraccia di Presura their home, relocating from the heart of Florence, choosing to raise their 2 young sons in the countryside. Laura designed all the labels. Il Tarocco (the Tarot) labels are inspired by the mirror image and day-night form of Tarot cards. The stunning label of Lucciolaio sparkles with golden luminescence of fire-flies (Lucciolo) found at the estate at twilight.

The investment in Torraccia di Presura has been massive. The Ostis have completely rebuilt the winery, creating a thoroughly modern facility dedicated to producing the best wine that their vineyards can acheive. We think they've done a wonderful job.
 
www.torracciadipresura.it

Brunello di Montalcino just might be Italy's greatest wine. The history goes back to 1866, when Ferruccio Biondi Santi decided to make his Chianti without white grapes, using only the local clone of sangiovese called Brunello. Montalcino's estates are typically very small. There were only a handful of producers in the 1960s, today there are 200 estates, 135 of which bottle their own wine. Only about 20 of these estates have more than 10 heactares. While the DOCG regulations used to require 48 months ageing in large, older wood, that requirement has been progressively reduced to 42, then 36, and recently 24 months, and different sized barrels are now permitted. This change allows producers to find the best wood/fruit ratio for each estate, allowing a fresher, yet more substantial style overall.

Le Macioche is the name given to the knoll which greets visitors as they arrive in Montalcino before descending into the scenic valley leading to the doors of St. Antimo Abbey. In front of the Le Macioche knoll, on the banks of the Ribusuoli Torrent, lies the Brunello vineyard belonging to the 'Le Palzzina' Estate. The estate, comprising only 3 heactares of vineyards and 1 heactare of olive grove, was purchased by Matilde Zecca & Achille Mazzocchi in 1985, and completely renewed by 1988. 1991 was their first vintage.

Maurizio Castelli, legendary Tuscan enologist is responsible for viticulture and winemaking. Maurizio's reputation rests on his ability to modernize an estate and craft the best quality wines while at the same time respecting the history and character of the region. Thus, a Castelli wine is one that has a true sense of place, and not one of the many 'international' wines now produced throughout Italy. He is mentor to a new generation of winemakers. We have met many disciples of Castelli, each holding him in the highest regard. His influence on estates such as Castello di Volpaia, Badia a Coltibuono, San Felice, Le Trame, as well as our own Pâcina, is profound. Prior to establishing his consulting business, Maurizio was oenologist for the Chianti Classico Consorzio, leading the charge to quality in the 1980's, which has had such profound results in the wines we enjoy today.

Anne & I first tasted the wines, 4 Brunellos and a Rosso di Montalcino , with the owners in April 2001. They are spectacular, but allocations are small. Our visit to Le Macioche in July 2002 reinforced our decision to represent them. The wines have an inspiring authenticity. Expressive, perhaps profound, there is no mistaking these for anything but the best quality Brunello. The estate is impeccable. The winery was built from the ground up, designed specifically to produce a small quantity of wine. Achille Mazzocchi is an engineer, and the simple, efficient, elegant plan shows his skill. Only large Botti are used here, no barriques, and the Brunello is typically aged 3 years in wood, followed by 2 years in bottle before release. The wines are elegant, highly aromatic, and very complex. Not at all 'Wine Spectator' stuff, but Tanzer adores them for their sophistication and authenticity. In Tanzer's 'International Wine Cellar', issue 103, Edward Beltrami comments on '97 Brunello as "Concentrated, complex and elegant: a joyful Brunello." We can't do better than that.

 

What a gem! Dr. Marco Montanari took over this abandoned and dilapidated estate, completely renewing the vineyards and the buildings, beginning in 1993. His first vintage was 1995, and in every year since 1996 Gambero Rosso has aclaimed his wines, awarding Tre Bicchieri awards each vintage!

From the outset, Dr. Montanari had a vision. He hired an acclaimed agronomist, Remigio Bordini to plan, plant and maintain the vineyards, and a top oenologist, Stefano Chioccioli (see also Le Fonti) to make the wines. Besides Sangiovese, he planted traditional Bordeaux varietals, including Cabernet Franc and Carmeniere. And he insisted upon maintenance of the biological balance of the land through minimal interference and without the use of herbicides and pesticides. There are now about 7.5 hectares of vineyards, planted to very high density which allows for very low yield per vine. Each vine is trained as a little tree, with a trunk of about 35 cm, a method called Alberello. While the cellar is entirely new, designed and built in the last 10 years, it is one of the simplest we have seen. (Very similar to Le Macioche) No high tech equipment. Simple, elegant design, meant for non-interventionalist methods. It's very impressive in its seeming simplicity. Total annual production averages only about 25,000 bottles (2,000+ cases).

Livernano produces 3 wines, plus Grappa and Extra Virgin Olive Oil, of course.

Anima is barrel-fermented and aged Chardonnay/Sauvignon/Gewürztraminer blend. Puro Sangue, as the name suggests, is 100% barrique aged Sangiovese. Livernano is a blend of Merlot (40-45%), Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc & Carmeniere (about 15% each) and Sangiovese (10-20%). Like Puro Sangue, it is aged in new French oak barriques. We also import a small quantitiy of Livernano's exquisite Olio di Oliva Estra Vergine.

Our allocations are miniscule. The wines are highly acclaimed. We apologize in advance for disappointing those of you who are not able to obtain any this year.

Livernano is in fact a tiny medieval village, including a small, ancient church and several villas now converted to agritourism. Absolutely worth a visit.

www.livernano.it

An extraordinary passion for the vineyards & wines of the south and for organic cultivation led partners Stefano Borsa, Fabrizio Tomas & Stefan Giesen to establish a company devoted to producing wines which define the quality and variety of Southern Italy. Though the business is based at Pâcina (Stefano is married to Giovanna Tiezzi and assists in the running of her family estate) the wines they produce come from several small estates in the south of Italy.

This trio of talented winemakers work together providing consulting services to a selection of wineries and vineyards, primarily in southern Italy. This involvement gives them the opportunity to discover some very special vineyards, from which they make a selection of absolutely beautiful wines. All three partners are disciples of Maurizio Castelli, and they follow his philosophy of improving vineyard and winemaking Pràctices to provide the best possible results, while preserving the integrity & authenticity of the place of origin, respecting the tradition of the region. Their method is to supervise every aspect of production - cultivation, harvest, vinification, aging, & bottling - while involving local producers in the process to propegate a culture of quality winemaking within the region. Organic cultivation is paramount in the desire to achieve sustainable farming, and produce fruit of character & the highest quality. These are thoroughly modern wines, but not 'international' by any means.

We are very excited to offer a range of Southern Italian wines; Fiano di Avellino, Taurasi, (both from Campania) Primitivo di Puglia, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Nero d'Avola from Sicily. With the 2003 vintage Tomas & Giesen have introduced a pair of characterful wines that are terrific values. T&G Bianco 'Colline Pescaresi' is a delicious, fresh, fruity blend of Trebbiano & Pecorino (the grape resurected by Guido Cocci Grifoni). T&G Rosso is a fruit bomb made from indigenous Sicilian varieties, Nero d'Avola and Periccone.

Some of the labels were designed by Giovanna Morgante's mom (see Le Boncie/Le Trame).

www.tomasegiesen.com

Our clients have been asking us for Barolo for years. 'How can you claim to be an Italian wine specialist without a Barolo in the portfolio?' Frankly, finding a Barolo producer that fits the philosophy of our portfolio, and whose wines we relate to, has been a long road. We think you'll recognize that the wait has been worth it. In her own words, Virna Borgogno identifies her goal as follows; 'the entire process, from the growing of the grapes, through the wine-making procedures to the ageing in oak casks, are followed with scrupulous attention to detail in order to provide the clientele with an absolute certainty: genuine wines of outstanding value.'

Virna works the estate with her father Lodovico Borgogno and husband Giovanni Abrigo. The family has owned vineyards in Barolo since 1720. Today, 8 ha of estate vineyards produce about 50,000 bottles annually. These vineyards are located in some of the most prestigious cru in Barolo, including Cannubi Boschis, Preda, Sarmassa, i Merli, San Giovanni, and Costa della Rose.

Virna bottles a Nebbiolo d'Alba, Barbera d'Alba 'San Giovanni', and a delightfully fresh, fruity Dolcetto d'Alba, in addition to her three Barolos. While the Nebbiolo & Barbera are aged in barrel, the Dolcetto sees no wood, in order to preserve the vibrant fruit. The most important wine of course is Barolo Classico, totalling about 40% of her production, sourced from several vineyards. Temperature-controlled fermentation is followed by 2 years in large Slavonian oak botti to preserve the freshness and aromatics of the fruit. The two cru Barolos are made in very small quantites, typically about 5,000 bottles of each. Cannubi Boschis is a highly regarded sub-plot of the larger Cannubi vineyard. Only two growers share ownership of this very famous cru - Luciano Sandrone and Virna Borgogno - while many growers own parcels of Cannubi. Of course Sandrone charges more than twice the price for his wine, although he and Virna consistently earn similar scores in the wine press. Following temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless, the Cannubi Boschis is aged in new 300 & 500 litre French oak barrels, and bottled without filtration. Preda Sarmassa combines fruit from two different crus, Preda for elegant aromatics, and Sarmassa for full body & structure. This wine is aged in a combination of botti and barrique, again bottled without filtration.

These are beautiful, authentic, impressive wines, and they represent tremendous value in the over-heated world of Piedmontese pricing. But you don't have to take my word, here's what Wine Enthusiast Magazine reported in April 2004: "Virna 1998 Barolo; Sumptuous aromas of fine leather - or is it suede, burst from the glass, accompanied by cherries, underbrush & dusty earth. Thick & tarry on the finish, with chewy tannins & hints of anise. 90 pts." "Virna 1998 Cannubi Boschis; This is a great value in Barolo. It's a big, somewhat rustic wine, with scents of horse sweat & leather intermingling wiht black cherries. Anise & intense, meaty flavors chime in on the long, firm finish. Try 2008 or beyond. Editor's Choice. 92 pts."

Barbaresco has long played second string to Barolo. Indeed, until the Barbaresco DOC was created in 1964, the wines were often included in bottlings of Barolo. The first Barbaresco was made in 1893 but, unfortunately, phylloxera, economics and two wars combined to delay the development of the region. In 1958 the Cantina Sociale dei Produttori del Barbaresco was established with the goal of re-invigorating the region, and by 1967 the best vineyards were being identified. Five separate crus, or vineyards, were identified as being superior sites for grape growing, among the earliest examples of this type of recognition in Italy. The most famous vigneron of the region is obviously the dynamic Angelo Gaja. By introducing the concept of cru Barbaresco and the use of barriques, he did much to establish the fame of the region. The irony is that Gaja no longer labels his most famous crus as 'Barbaresco DOCG', preferring to use the more flexible 'Langhe IGT' designation.

Giovanni Abrigo & his wife Virna Borgogno (see Virna di Lodovico Borgogno, Barolo) were introduced to us by Nik Weiss. He suggested that we might find their wines 'interesting'. A minor understatement, you might say.

Orlando Abrigo & his son Giovanni produce about 80,000 bottles annually, the fruit comes exclusively from the estate's 15 ha of vineyards. Since Giovanni joined his father in 1988, they have competely modernized the winery, and increased vineyard holdings. Giovanni works hand in hand wife his wife to produce high-quality wines at his family estate in Barbaresco and at Virna's family estate in Barolo. The family also operates an 'agriturismo' at the estate, offering 5 bedrooms & a swimming pool.

Of course the focus is on Barbaresco DOCG, with two cru vinified. Vigna Montersino is a full-scale, impressive wine, fermented in temperature-controlled stainless, with malolactic& aging in new barrique. The vineyard provides plenty of structure and richness of fruit to take the oak and allow for long-term cellar potential in a wine that is remarkable supple. Vigna Rongallo provides more high-toned fruit, contributing to a more aromatic, perhaps more Classic style Barbaresco that benefits from aging in 2500 L oak botti rather than barrique. The full range of wines is impressive, comprising two Barbera d'Alba, two Langhe Rosso, two chardonnays, and a Dolcetto d'Alba. Perhaps the most joyful of the wines being Barbera d'Alba 'Mervisano'. Incredible concentration and complexity from 40 year-old vines is pumped-up another notch by having 20% of the fruit go through appassimento, semi-drying of the grapes, then the wine is aged in barrique. No doubt, this is the most appealing Barbera we have ever tasted.

The Abrigo style is thoroughly modern. Estate vineyards producing low yields of consistently ripe fruit, temperature-controlled fermentation, and barrique aging assure that the wines are rich and full-flavoured. As Nicholas Belfrage comments, 'Giovanni Abrigo is a man of strong ideas. His Barbarescos can be relied upon to be pure, Giovanni being a avowed opponent the of the new wave's practice of blending foreign grapes or wines with Nebbiolo to compensate for deficiencies in colour & fruitiness.' Many thanks to Nik for the introduction!

Marco Montanari of Livernano introduced us to Maria Rosa Bordini. Her father, Remigio Bordini is one of the most important agronomists in Emilia-Romagna, reknowned for his research into the clones and history of Sangiovese (considered to be native to Emilia-Romagna, not Tuscany as often assumed) and other grape varieties. Remigio Bordini is also responsible for clonal selection & vineyard management at Livernano.

The winery was founded in 2001 with the purchase of the 14th century Villa Papiano, near the medieval town of Modigliana, near Forli, in the hills of the eastern part of the region. There are eight young partners, including four members of the Bordini family, and Monica & Michele Pierleoni, formerly of the excellent Chianti Classico estate Carobbio. The 60 ha estate has about 10 ha of vines at 450 m above sea level, planted to indigenous clones of Sangiovese, and old vines of Merlot, Negretto, Grenache & Balsamena. These old vineyards and unique genetic varieties are the key to the significance of the estate, and a testament to the passions of Remigio Bordini & his children. The enologist is the highly-regarded Lorenzo Landi. The altitude of the vineyards contributes to the acidity & aromatics of the wine, while the mature vineyards & low yields contribute to the intensity of the fruit. The range of wines represents tremendous value given the high quality and the character of these wonderful wines. About 30,000 bottles are produced annually.

Villa Papiano produces three distinctive wines. Papiano di Papiano, the signature wine of the estate, comes from the original vineyard with ancient clones of Merlot & Alicante (Grenache). 9/10 of a hectare (about 2 acres) yield only about 4800 bottles. I Probi di Papiano, a Sangiovese di Romagna, is produced from a 40 year old, 2.5 ha vineyard planted to Sangiovese, Merlot & Syrah. Le Papesse di Papiano is the younger version of Sangiovese di Romagna. It's a vineyard blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Negretto & Balsamena.

The early wines have already shown the great promise of the estate. In the 2004 edition, Slow Food/Gambero Rosso awarded all three wines 2 Bicchieri, including Papiano di Papiano in the finals of the Tre Bicchieri consideration. Some of their comments: '...has already earned a place in the front rank of winemaking in Romagna.' 'All in all, the results were excellent and repay the energy & enthusiasm that the winery's partners have devoted to the new enterprise.'

Three partners seems to be a theme among our Sonoma suppliers. However, two of these three are from Toronto. Gray Fowler & winemaker/managing partner Mike Lancaster are both Toronto boys who have a serious passion for wine. Carl Stewart of Boston is the third.

Mike moved to California in 1994, to study at UC Davis following an apprenticeship at Niagara's Stonechurch winery. While at UC Davis, Mike worked at Gloria Ferrer, Sonoma followed by five years as assistant winemaker and then winemaker at Napa's Quail Ridge winery. Finally, in 2000 Mike was able to launch Tin Barn with the support of his friends.

The idea behind Tin Barn is to produce a range of high-quality wines driven by vineyards. Each wine in the range is determined by searching out great vineyards, the number of bottles produced dependent on the amount of fruit available from that site. The result is a selection of wines, made in very small quantities, that really showcase the differences in soil, microclimate and location. Each of the wines is vineyard-specific, and each is produced in under 1000 cases annually. Tin Barn crafts five red and one white wine. In the 2003 vintage, total production reached 3,000 cases. Ultimately, given the vineyard contracts and the maturing of some of the new planting, they should reach about 4,500 cases. Tasting through the range, the most striking thing for us is the consistent impression of balanced, beautifully structured wines.

Zinfandel has been an early success, with 90+ scores in Wine Access & Wine Enthusiast. Mike works with two vineyards, Jensen Lane Vineyard, near Windsor in Sonoma's Russian River Valley, and Dalraddy Vineyard in the Chiles Vally sub-appellation of Napa. Coincidentally, both vineyards were palnted in the early 1970s. Tasting them side by side shows the classic differences between Napa & Sonoma Zin, with Jensen Lane showing all the vibrant red berries and luscious mouthfeel typical of Russian River and the Dalraddy showing the more restrained, structured elegance and dark cherries & spice of Napa. Both Zins are vinified using virtually identical processing, aged in American oak, clearly showcasing the differences in vineyards.

Tin Barn also produces two Cabs, a Sonoma and a Napa. Tombs Creek Vineyard, located just east of Dry Creek Valley at about 1000 feet elevation, provides fruit for a wine that is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The berries are tiny & intense as you expect from a hillside vineyard, creating a well-stuctured wine with a long life ahead. In contrast, the wine produced from the famous Volker Eisele Vineyard in Chiles Valley, Napa is a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc. This vineyard is farmed organically by one of California's true iconoclasts. The wine is pure elegance. Both cabs are aged in a combination of new and neutral French oak.

As great as the Zins & Cabs are, and they are truly delicious wines, the one that I think will put Tin Barn on the map is Syrah. Mike produces a profound wine from the Coryelle Fields Vineyard in the Sonoma Coast appellation. The depth of flavour, the intensity of colour, the balance, structure and the complextiy of the wine produced from this young vineyard is stunning. Tin Barn has exclusive rights to the fruit from this vineyard, and the first harvest was in 2000. I can only imagine what will come as the vineyard matures. In youth, it's almost opaque. With bottle-age the Syrah shows Rhone-ish pepper & smoked meat wrapped in dark California fruit. Wow. French oak is used for ageing, about half of the barrels are new each vintage.

Finally, Tin Barn produces lovely Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard in Bennett Valley, a sub-appellation of Russian River Valley. Planted to the Sauvignon-Musque clone, the wine is fresh and highly aromatic, characteristics that are preserved by a cold fermentation in stainless. A small portion of the juice is fermented in barrel, then transferred immediately to stainless, a practice which adds richness to the mouthfeel without adding an oaky character to the aroma. Malolactic is inhibited to preserve the fresh acidity.

www.tinbarnvineyards.com
 
 

Crane Canyon is one of Sonoma's smallest wineries.  Started in 1993 by Gardner Britt & Pat Imbimbo, joined later by Chuck Elsbree, the winery is located in the picturesque foothills of Windsor California.  Handcrafted in small lots, the wines reflect the passion of the winemakers.  These are exciting wines!

White Crane is made in the Alsatian style - aromatic, yet bone dry.  It's a unique blend of 50% Viognier and 50% Gewurztraminer. The nose is floral and spice, the mouthfeel is sumptuous, the finish crisp.  Outstanding with Asian food. 400 cases.

Russian River Pinot Noir shows a bouquet full and rich with classic black cherry fruit so fresh that it almost seems sweet, accented with a hint of cinnamon/clove spice, and a splash of what is best described as the richness of bacon being cooked.  The mouthfeel has a creamy, nectar-like viscosity that caresses the entire palate.  Soft tannins make the wine drinkable now, but there is sufficient structure to benefit from ageing.

Through the 1980s, Gardner was an amateur winemaker with a definite preference for French wines. (His full-time job is still as emergency-room physician.) When he discovered his neighbour had some old-vine mourvedre, Gardner was inspired by his memories of Domaine Tempier, the famous estate of Bandol, and he embarked on a mission to make great rosé and red versions of the wine. We think he has succeeded. Although the neighbour no longer has the vineyard, Crane Canyon has been able to source some fruit in Knight's Valley, making Mourvèdre their most dynamic wine. A very elegant Russian River Valley Zinfandel rounds out the selection.

www.cranecanyon.com
 
 

Tim Murphy, Dale Goode & Dave Ready founded this winery in 1985 after a couple of decades as grape growers.  They have 350 acres of vineyards in Alexander Valley and Russian River Valley.

This important Alexander Valley winery produces wines that are typically ripe, fruity, and flavourful, with pretty oak accents.  The lush style, together with the richness and complexity of fruit, leads to wines which provide outstanding character at very reasonable prices. The up-front style provides great immediate enjoyment, yet the (red) wines have proven to age very gracefully.  James Laube rates the range 3 to 4 stars, Robert Parker uses descriptors such as "flamboyant", "delicious" and "reliable".

Murphy-Goode is perhaps best known for their range of Fumé Blancs.  The basic Sonoma County Fumé Blanc is fresh, very lightly oaked, medium-bodied. The Alexander Valley 'Reserve' Fumé is barrel fermented, while La Deuce is full-throttle - barrel-fermented, full malolactic, new oak... Parker has called their Fumé II - La Deuce "one of the most spectacular Fumé Blancs I  have ever tasted from California". In 2003 Murphy-Goode was among the first California wineries to introduce Stelvin closures (screwcaps) in an effort to preserve the integrity and freshness of their unoaked Sauvignon Blanc 'Tin Roof'.

Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a dark, rich style, with concentrated ripe fruit, spicy oak and excellent balancing acidity.  Almost decadent.  The vineyard-designated 'Brenda Block' consistently scores in the outstanding range (1997 was Wine Spectator 93 pts.)

The entire range of wines, including Chardonnay and Merlot, offer exceptional varietal character. To us, the wine express exactly what we expect, in a style that is always approachable and extremely satisfying.

"Liar's Dice" Zinfandel is an aromatic wine with blackberry, peppery, spicy fruit and a hint of oak.  Absolutely delicious, fruity, medium-full bodied zin.  Definitely 'smore wine. Winemaker Dave Ready, Jr. looked after the zinfandel project for years before becoming head winemaker in 2001, succeeding Christina Benz who had been at the helm for 15 years.

www.murphygoodewinery.com
 
 

Justin Vineyards & Winery, Paso Robles

Founded by Justin & Deborah Baldwin in 1982, just west of the town of Paso Robles. The first vintage was 1986, and since then, Justin has produced what James Laube refers to as "among the richest, deepest and most complex cabernet-based reds outside Napa or Sonoma". But theat's not all. Justin's 72 acres of vineyards, at 1,100 to 1,600 feet elevation, include syrah, zinfandel, sangiovese, nebbiolo, chardonnay and viognier in addition to the Bordeaux varietals. This is rugged terrain, with a distinct Pacific influence, producing an impressive array of well-made, well-structured wines. Clearly not Bordeaux wannabees, the Justin fruit is much too flamboyant, the wines possess balance and poise rarely seen in California.

Justin produced the first Bordeaux-blend in Paso Robles. You may have seen 1997 Isosceles recently in Wine Spectator alongside Chateau Montelena and Screaming Eagle. In fact, 1997 Isosceles was #6 in the Wine Spectator Top 100 for 2000, hailed as "the best wine ever made from the Paso Robles region of California's Central Coast". Isosceles is a 'left bank' (Médoc) blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc & merlot, while Justification is a 'right bank' interpretation of cabernet franc & merlot. Justin's Cabernet Sauvignon,100% cab, benefits from the hot days and cold nights of the region. This temperature fluctuation contributes to the great acidity in all of the Justin wines.

In keeping with the French-inspired winemaking philosophy, the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in stainless, and bottled without oak influence. While the Chardonnay is barrel-fermented, the oak is used, thus imparting no overt character to the wine. The result is expressive of the ripe fruit and mineral character of the soil.

As Syrah/Shiraz becomes more and more popular in North America, Paso Robles, especially the 'West-side' where Justin, Turley, and Tablas Creek are located, seems destined to become the star region for this Rhône Varietal. Justin has been receiving great attention for their Syrah, both the Halter Vineyard Syrah (formerly called MacGillivray Vyd) and the Estate Syrah.

Isosceles 1999 - "A wonderfully rich and complex Cabernet blend, smooth and seamless, for its layers of ripe currant, black cherry and blackberry shaded with anise, herb and earth. Finishes with just the right amount of acidity and tannin to sustain its long, lingering finish. Best from 2003 through 2012." - Wine Spectator, 9/02. 92 pts.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 1999 - "Dark, rich and plush, with thick, earthy currant, plum, mocha and blackberry flavors that are sharply focused, long and complex, with a wall of ripe tannins on finish. Best from 2003 through 2010" - Wine Spectator, 5/02. 91 pts.

www.justinwine.com
 
 

Philip Togni studied under Emile Peynaud at the University of Bordeaux, followed in 1954 by a period at Château Lascombes in Margaux. He arrived in California in 1958, beginning with Mayacamas, then he became Chalone's first winemaker. Mr. Togni also worked at Gallo, before setting standards for the California industry as winemaker for Chappellet, then Cuvaison. (his 1969 Chappellet is legendary - and still has a long life ahead- in California wine circles.) Philip Togni Vineyard was founded in 1983.

Philip Togni employs an intense program of crop-thinning, leaf-thinning and positioning, and crop sorting to maintain optimum ripeness and balance at the expense of incredibly low yields. His annual production rarely exceeds 2,000 cases. The hand-picked fruit is collected in shallow bins to avoid crushing or bruising, then hand-sorted by Mr. Togni and his wife Birgitta prior to crushing. Daughter Lisa has recently been named assistant winemaker.

"Part mountain goat, part man, Philip Togni continues to fight vineyard diseases such as Pierce's, and frightfully low yields from his formidably steep Spring Mountain vineyards to produce some of California's most exciting wines." - Robert M. Parker, Jr.

"The 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a saturated black/purple color, and a sweet, evolved aromatic profile consisting of Provençal olives, creme de cassis, blackberries, and spice. Surprisingly easy to assess, with silky tannin, gorgeously pure fruit, full body, and layers of lavishly rich, creamy-textured, this wine should be drinkable young (by Togni's standards), yet age effortlessly for 15-25 years. This may be the sexiest, most seductive cabernet sauvignon I have tasted from Philip Togni."- Parker (again)

Parker continues in The Wine Advocate Issue 132, "His 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon is the smallest-scaled wine of the 90s, but as I told him, 'If this is as bad as you can do, bravo!' The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a dense ruby/purple colour. Made from fruit that was harvested between October 30 and November 4 (50% of the crop was cut off to guarantee only ripe fruit), it reveals aromas of tapenade, licorice, black currants, smoked herbs, and earth. The wine offers abundant black fruits, outstanding richness and complexity, but is more evolved than most Togni Cabernets at a similar age. It can be drunk early, but will easily age for 15 or more years."

In Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide, 5th Edition he reviews the 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon 'Tanbark Hill'. "In 1993, Togni declassified 100 cases (4 barrels) of Cabernet Sauvignon that was more herbaceous and softer. The 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Tanbark Hill Vineyard should elicit considerable interest from restaurants seeking a complex, concentrated, viscous-textured wine that is soft, delicious, and as Philip Togni says, 'the only Cabernet I make that you can see through the wines color.' I would add the word 'barely.' This full-bodied, rich wine provides a big, chunky, muscular yet silky-textured mouthful of Cabernet fruit."

Parker wrote in his Wine Buyer's Guide, 6th Edition that the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon "(picked betweeen October 11-15) is a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot & 3% cabernet franc. It could easily rival some of Togni's greatest wines of the nineties. This stupendous effort has a saturated, black/purple color and a gorgeously pure nose of licorice, blackberries, cassis, mineral, & smoke. With an unctuous texture, firm but sweet tannin, exquisite puritiy, & fine overall symmetry, it is one of the vintages' top successes." (95)

Partners David Topper & Geoff Gorsuch own 10 acres of Chardonnay planted in Yountville in 1978 and farmed without pesticides. Originally, the fruit was sold to Far Niente, Burgess, and other premium wineries.  The Goosecross winery was completed in 1987, David & Geoff purchased the business in 1992 from Geoff's parents. They also manage a 40 acre property on Howell Mountain, part of their purchase of the Bernard Pràdel winery in 1996. Howell Mountain provides some of the most rare and distinctive vineyard land in all of California. Goosecross has increased vineyard planting from 10 to 24 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon on this exceptional site. The vineyards are terraced on a 40º slope, providing excellent drainage. Soils are volcanic, contributing to the structure and character of the wines. Yield is only one ton per acre on this terraced vineyard.

Goosecross' Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, from vineyards on the valley floor near Yountville & Rutherford, is produced in very small quantities (under 1000 cases). The wine shows a gorgeous nose of violets around a core of dark fruit & mocha. Primarily French oak is used for aging this elegant, full-bodied 100% cabernet sauvignon.

Goosecross' Chardonnay is crafted in an elegant style, designed to complement a meal and refresh the palate. In order to achieve this, half the wine is fermented in stainless and half in barrel, malo-lactic fermentation is prohibited, and only 1/3 of the oak barrels are new. The result is a wine with complexity, body, and great acidity, which gives outstanding drinkability. In March 2002, Toronto Life magazine selected the Goosecross Chardonnay as wine of the month.

Goosecross produces small quantites of Chardonnay from their Yountville and Carneros vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon from Howell Mountain, Zinfandel from Yountville, and Sauvignon Blanc & Syrah from California's Central Coast (Santa Maria Valley and Paso Robles). Total production is about 8,000 cases annually.

Incidentally, the name Goosecross is derived from the Gorsuch family name.

www.goosecross.com
 

Dennis Groth made an immediate mark in the history of California wine when his 1985 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon became the first American wine awarded 100 points by Robert Parker. Where do you go from there, Groth hadn't even built the winery yet! Seventeen years later, Groth remains one of the icons of Napa Valley viticulture. Constantly refining vineyard and cellar technique, the quest for individual style and unassailable quality remains true.

In 1994 Michael Weiss took over winemaking from Nils Venge who had been with Groth from the beginning. Dennis Groth challenged Weiss to improve the white wine program while not 'screwing-up the reds'. No doubt, Weiss has taken the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc to the top tier of California wine through greater expression of fruit, using whole-cluster pressing and less aggressive oak treatment. His is the archetype of Napa Sauvignon Blanc - full, fresh & aromatic. Weiss has also brought greater finesse to the red wines. Always wines with structure requiring some bottle-age, Weiss' style shows maturity, in the character of the fruit which comes with time of coure, but maturity also in the elegance of the wines themselves. Always reserved, rarely blockbusters, the Groth Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are better than ever, showing all balance, elegance, finesse, and character of wines of great pedigree.

Groth has recently completed a program, initiated by the appearnce of phylloxera, of replanting the precious Oakville vineyards. In taking the opportunity of replanting to acheive even higher quality fruit, they have fine-tuned clonal selections, and rotated the orientation of the rows of vines 180º, providing improved ripening of the fruit. One of the implications of the replanting process is that following the 1999 vintage, there will be no Reserve Cab produced until the the first blocks of the new plantings reach maturity.

www.grothwines.com
 
 

Gordon Getty, Bill Getty & Gavin Newsom, co-owners of PlumpJack Winery have a knack for combining irreverence with stunning quality and design. Bold and audacious, what they call their "core ideology" is designed to make operational the roguish spirit of Shakespeare's Sir John Falstaff (Henry IV), dubbed "Plump Jack" by Queen Elizabeth I - hence the company name.

The facility where PlumpJack now makes its wine was the original home of Villa Mt. Eden Winery. Beginning in 1973, proprietors James and Anne McWilliams rapidly gained attention for producing dynamic, long-lived wines, with particular emphasis on the estate and reserve Cabernet Sauvignons. Founded in 1881, the main winery building, which is still in use, was completed in 1883. There have been vineyards at the Oakville site since the late 1800s. This is hallowed ground in Napa Valley wine circles, some of the finest vineyard land in California. PlumpJack's neighbours include Groth, Silver Oak, Screaming Eagle, Rudd, ZD, Harlan and Dalle Valle. Robert Parker continues to refer to the great wines produced at this estate in the '70s as benchmark Napa Valley Cabernets.

Anthony Biagi is winemaker, crafting wines that are getting better with every vintage. He's a curious guy, always looking for new methods, always examining the way things have been done in the past, and in other parts of the world. Consulting winemaker Nils Venge began his career in the wine industry as vineyard manager for the Charles Krug Winery, moving to Sterling Vineyards in the early 1970s. Soon thereafter, Venge made the leap into professional winemaking when he took a position as the first winemaker and general manager for Villa Mt. Eden (now the site of PlumpJack Winery). An outstanding run of exquisite Cabernets from 1975-1979 not only put the winery on the map, but also established Venge as one of the industry's new stars. Another milestone year occurred for Venge in 1982. Not only did he become a minority partner with Dennis Groth in the newly-formed Groth Vineyards & Winery, but also established his own winery, Saddleback Cellars. It was at Groth that his 1985 Reserve Cabernet earned a 100-point rating from Robert Parker Jr.- the first perfect score ever awarded to an American winery. In 1994, Venge split with Groth to pursue his own endeavors at Saddleback and to act as a consultant to other wineries in the area.

In addition to the calibre of the vineyards and winemaking, one of the things PlumpJack has done which has garnered a tremendous amount of publicity, is their decision, beginning with the 1997 vintage, to bottle the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon with screwcaps. Each year, for a minimum of 5 vintages, half the production is bottled with screwcaps and half with corks. Part of the experiment is scientific, studying the way the wine ages with the different closures, and part of the experiment is marketing, evaluating customer acceptance of screwcaps on premium wine. Over the course of the next several years, the wine can be evaluated by the winery and their customers, and a long-term decision can be reached. The move by PlumpJack to bottle a super-premium wine with screwcap provides a strong endorsement for the closure, and an equally strong warning for the cork industry to resolve quality issues. PlumpJack is fortunate in that they can afford to take a lead position in the cork vs screwcap debate. As Gordon Getty says, if the market rejects the screwcap, it won't bankrupt the family. Of course, Falstaff would have loved the game, too.

This combination of location, legendary winemaking talent, and history contribute to a collection of wines winning rave reviews. Parker remarks that the 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve "is one of the few 1998s that is actually better than the 1997." and "I don't really know how they pulled this off in 1998, but certainly some of the very best 1998 Cabernet Sauvignons have emerged from the Oakville corridor."

The PlumpJack empire includes a retail wine shop (PlumpJack Wines), 2 acclaimed restaurants (PlumpJack Café, PlumpJack Balboa Café), and a resort hotel (PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn) in addition to the winery.

www.plumpjack.com

When we were approached about representing Schramsberg, I must admit to a cautious enthusiasm. Of course, we knew the reputation of California's premier producer of Traditional Method (Champagne method) sparkling wines, but frankly, I was a bit concerned about prices. Talk about a reality check! After visiting the estate in January 2005, tasting the wines, witnessing the meticulous production methods, and meeting the people, we were truly blown away. We can't figure out how they can make any money selling wine of this quality at these low prices!

Schramsberg was founded in 1862 by Joseph Schram, the Napa Valley's first hillside winery. Chinese laborers dug 2 miles of caves into the volcanic rock of Diamond Mountain, and planted the hillside vineyards. In classic Champenoise style, Schram died in 1905, leaving his widow to run the estate until prohibition forced them to close their doors. In 1965 Jack & Jamie Davies bought the run down estate and began the long process of resurrecting what is surely one of California's most historic and significant wineries. The second generation of Davies, having grown up at the estate, is now having an impact. Jack died in 1998, his son Hugh Davies is the winemaker, working closely with his mother to ensure the long-term progress of Schramsberg.

High quality sparkling wine is created through the art of blending. Hugh Davies refers to diversity in cool climates as the key to quality. Blends of grape varieties, vineyard locations, and vinicultural techniques create the complexity of character and consistency of style that identify the best sparkling wines from Champagne and around the world. California has such diversity of winegrowing regions and vintage to vintage consistency, that it is truly a winemaker's paradise. It's interesting to note that Schramsberg's wines typically have higher levels of acidity than Champagne, while at the same time the ripeness of fruit from the vineyards is also better. Recognizing that the north end of the Napa Valley is not the ideal climate for growing sparkling wine grapes, Shcramsberg now draws fruit from more than 80 vineyards in four regions to produce about 35,000 cases of wine. Remarkably, each vineyard averages only 3.5 acres, with yields averaging 3 tons/acre. This provides about 120 lots for blending in each vintage. Chardonnay & Pinot Noir grown in cooler microclimates (Anderson Valley, Carneros, Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Marin Coast) contribute the right levels of acid/fruit balance, while the diversity of vineyard locations contribute to the complexity of the blends.

Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay), Blanc de Noirs (84% Pinot Noir/16% Chardonnay), and Brut Rosé (57% Pinot Noir/43% Chardonnay) are 20% barrel fermented. Schramsberg Reserve (75% Pinot Noir/25% Chardonnay) and the incredible 'tête de cuvée' J. Schram (76% Chardonnay/24% Pinot Noir) are 40% barrel fermented. In all cases, most of the barrels are older. Only some lots are allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation. All of the Schramsberg wines (except Mirabelle) undergo the second fermentation in bottle, and are hand-riddled. Blanc de Blancs & Blanc de Noirs are aged on the yeast a minimum of 3 years before disgorgement, Reserve and J. Schram are aged six years on the yeast before release.

www.schramsberg.com

von Strasser, Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley

Their search for a distinctive vineyard with the potential to produce the finest red wines in Napa led Rita & Rudy von Strasser to the former Roddis estate winery on Diamond Mountain in the spring of 1990.  A graduate of UC Davis, Rudy developed a passion and talent for producing cabernet sauvignon through his work at Chateau Lafite-Rothschild and Newton Vineyards.

The oldest vineyard block on the estate, 2 acres, was planted in 1970, the second block was planted in 1983, both with budwood from Martha's Vineyard.  From 1985-90, the vineyard was the source of Pine Ridge's Diamond Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.  By 1998, von Stasser had increased the vineyards to a total of 15 acres of cabernet sauvignon, merlot & petit verdot, and had increased vine density by double-planting the rows. Von Strasser also uses fruit from other diamond Mountain vineyards. Sori Bricco Vineyard -15 acres of Bordeaux varietals planted in 1968; Monhoff Vineyard - 1.25 acres of Zinfandel planted in 1969-74; Post Vineyard - 3 acres adjacent to the von Strasser Estate Vineyard planted and farmed by von Strasser; Rainin Vineyard - planted with 6 clones of chardonnay in 1983 now farmed by von Strasser; and Aurora Vineyard - chardonnay planted in 1978.

These distinctive vineyards, the unique wines they yield, and the calibre of neighbouring vineyards such as those of Diamond Creek, inspired Rudy von Strasser to lead a campaign to have Diamond Mountain District awarded status as a separate AVA within Napa. All wines bearing the von Strasser label are produced exclusively from Diamond Mountain fruit.

James Laube refers to von Strasser's as "distinctive, classy wines"  "Consistently well made and focused, with appealing herb, currant and pretty oak shadings."  "Worth buying." Stephen Tanzer refers to von Strasser 1997 Reserve as "A powerful, mountain-style Bordeaux blend that's made with an almost magically light touch."

The Wine & Spirits magazine review of April 2001 is simply too poetic to ignore... "Close your eyes and you can imagine the scent of volcanic soils on Diamond Mountain, the ancient crushed lava seemingly apparent right there in the glass - though here it's just part of the supporting structure for the luscious, ripe plum flavors filling this delicious wine. Take a sip and the deep well of fruit submerges that earthy structure, the plumminess expanding into the finish, generous, rich lively and vibrant. The fine evolution it shows with air predicts good development ahead in bottle."

Additionally, The New York Times, in awarding 4 stars, comments, "Don't listen to talk of '98 as a mediocre vintage. This is classic Napa Valley Cabernet with the intensity of mountain grown fruit and the telltale opulence of von Strasser." In a retrospective tasting, The New York Times also commented on von Strasser's inaugural 1990 Cab, "Spectacular! Superb on release, this wine has gotten even better. It may be one of the finest California Cabernets we've ever tasted." (5 stars).

From Wine Spectator, Steven Tanzer, and Robert Parker, to Wine Enthusiast and Wine & Spirits, the entire range of von Strasser's 1999 vintage has received tremendous Pràise.
In each review, the comments on concentration, structure, balance, texture and aromatics provide a consistent description of wines of great pedigree and distictive character.
Wine & Spirits Magazine, Annual Buying Guide, Winter 2002, hails von Straseer as one of their "Regional Wineries of the Year".

In his first decade, Rudy von Strasser has confirmed his place as one of California's great winemakers, and Diamond Mounain District as one of California's most distinctive wine-growing regions. Definitely one of the stars of the new age of California Cabernet.

Recent Reviews:

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain -
"Sumputous even in its backward, youthful, undeveloped state, this is round & juicy as a bursting fresh cherry, hard as iron filings, yet giving & smooth. It's all those things as it rolls around the tongue, firm & lovley, not ready, but powerful. You can sense tre richness & the bone structure; you can sense it more clearly tasting the wine a day later. All you need is the time." - Wine & Spirits, 6/02. 94 pts. (also 91 pts Wine Enthusiast)

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Estate -
"Full ruby-red. Aromatic, floral nose dominated by cassis. Full, fat & deep, with a lovely layered texture & solid underlying structure. Accurate cabernet flavors of black & red currant enlivened by firm acidity. Some earthy low tones add complexity. This has more stuffing, as well as more substantial tannins that call for at least 4 or 5 years of cellaring." - Steven Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, May/June '02. 90+ pts.
(also 92 pts Wine & Spirits, 90 pts Robert M. Parker, Jr.)

1999 Sori Bricco Vineyard Red Wine -
"Beautiful orchestration of flavors in this cabernet, merlot & cabernet franc blend, with dark, rich, chewy currant, earth, tobacco, cedar & mocha, firm tannins & the kind of concentration & structure that bode well for aging. The flavors push through on a strong, focused finish, with sufficient tannins to age a decade." - Wine Spectator. 93 pts.

other reviews:
1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve - 92 pts Wine & Spirits, 93 pts Wine Spectator, 91 pts Wine Enthusiast
1999 Chardonnay, Rainin Vyd. - 94 pts Wine Enthusiast

www.vonstrasser.com
 
 

Ron McManis is the fourth generation to farm his family's land at the confluence of the San Joaquin and Stanislaus Rivers, south of Sacremento. With his wife Jamie, Ron farms 1,200 acres of vineyards. (Ron's brother farms an adjacent ranch growing 2,000+ acres of almonds.)

Staring as grapegrowers, Jamie & Ron developed into grape brokers, sourcing fruit they couldn't supply from their own vineyards. This led to relationships with the best growers in the region. Eventually, in order to demonstrate the quality of their grapes, Ron applied to have his land designated as an AVA, leading to the creation of the River Junction appellation, one of the 3 smallest AVAs in the country. In 1997, they built a contract winery to serve the growing needs of their clients, hiring Jeff Runquist, formerly at J.Lohr & Vichon, as winemaker. By 2000 they had created their own label as well. One of the thinds that makes McManis stand out is their 'North Coast Philosophy'. That means that they work to plant the right grape variety in the right location, and ferment the fruit in small lots to allow for appropriate handling of each lot for the highest quality and character. In February 2005, Robert Parker commented on the quality/price relationship, "California does not produce many value-priced wines so it is nice to see this pleasant palatable quartet from McManis Family Vineyards."

Now, McManis offers winery clients such as Stag's Leap Winery, The Hess Collection, Bonny Doon, Niebaum Coppola, Rutherford Hill, DeLoach and Beringer a complete range of products, from grapes and unfermented juice, to bulk wine or finished, bottled wine. It's quite an impressive operation, with a state-of-the-art facility designed to handle large volumes in small, custom-crush lots.

Total production of McManis Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvingon in 2000 was only about 5,000 cases, that jumped to about 30,000 in the 2001 vintage. The wines have been an immediate success, with silver, gold and double-gold medals at the Californina State Fair, and almost overwhelming demand following introduction in Ontario. Wine Spectator seems to be jumping on the bandwagon too, calling the 2000 vintage "easy to like", and including McManis in the feature "James Laude's Best Value California Cabernets", November 2002.

Of course, the benefit to us is that Jamie & Ron have the resources to create great wine at great prices. The goal of all their efforts in creating the River Junction appellation and bottling terrific-value wines is to demonstrate their potential and quality as a production partner for coastal wineries. It's become a very impressive sales tool, and we have become lucky benefactors of this strategy. Keep in mind that wines from the Northern Interior are most enjoyable when they're young. These are wines for drinking, not for cellaring.

www.mcmanisfamilyvineyards.com

Anyone who has visited the Napa Valley is sure to have noticed the beautiful Whitehall Lane Winery south of St. Helena in the Rutherford appellation. Founded in 1979, it was purchased in 1993 by Tom Leonardini, who completely refurbished the vineyards and winery. Tom has increased vineyard holdings to a total of 110 acres in Rutherford, St. Helena, & Napa, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon. Since 1998, Wine Spectator's TOP 100 Wines has included Whitehall Lane an amazing three times - always in the top 10.

Winemaker Dean Sylvester is a 20-year veteran of the Napa Valley, previously with Newton, Chimney Rock & Perelli-Minetti wineries. He's been at Whitehall Lane since the 1995 vintage, and is responsible for all three Wine Spectator Top 100 wines. Dean looks after estate and contract vineyards as well as winemaking, and is, apparently, a bit of a control freak.

Sauvignon Blanc includes a touch of Semillon. Most of the juice is fermented in stainless, but about 30% is fermented in new French oak. The barrel-fermented portion is aged 2 months 'sur-lie' before blending. The style is full, while maintaining an aromatic, refreshing quality. Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot are both blends of classic Bordeaux varietals, containing about 85% of the main varietal. Ageing takes place in a mix of American & French barrels for 20 months. These are lush, full, hedonistic wines. The dramatic Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Leonardini (St. Helena) & Morisoli (Rutherford) vineyards, aged 22 months in French & American oak. Dense, highly aromatic, generously fruity, with a silky texture and great underlying tannic structure.

www.whitehalllane.com

With our strong focus on Italian, and particularly Tuscan wines, we thought it appropriate to introduce a great California Sangiovese specialist.

Suzy & Jim Gullett produce about 4,000 cases of Sangiovese, primarily from their 21 acres of estate vineyards. 1990 was the first vintage, and Noceto finished construction of their winery in time for the 1999 harvest.

Knowing that they wanted a noble grape variety, and that Shenandoah Valley required a warm-climate variety, Jim & Suzy began researching the options for their vineyards. Zinfandel, Syrah
and Aglianico where all considered and rejected in favour of Sangiovese. In 1987 they panted the first parcels with Sangiovese, Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello), and Sangioveto. Noceto's wines are modelled on the Chianti Classico style, emphasizing the delicate, complex fruitiness of Sangiovese. Neutral and large-format oak aging allows slow maturation while adding a subtle spiciness to the wine. A mix of American & French oak in a variety of age & sizes is used. The wines strike a great balance between California sexy and Tuscan vitality. These are thoroughly enjoyable wines.

www.noceto.com
 
 

Sylke Rees & David Miller came to winegrowing later in life from an interesting career in publishing a homesteading magazine. In 1998, fter 2 years searching throughout the region, they finally found the location they felt was ideal for growing fine wine grapes. From the beginning, their goal was to farm sustainably. To that end, in true Aussie fashion, they use a flock of sheep to control weeds in the winter months.

In talking to David, I've gained the impression that he is a permanent student, analytical & curious about so many things. Clearly he is learning about winemaking every day and every vintage. Farming using organic methods, studying biodynamic theory, using wild yeast to ferment... David is gradually moving to French oak for aging his wines, as he feels the more elegant treatment works better with the terrior of their vineyard. Rees Miller Estate has 18 acres of vineyard, planted to Pinot Noir, Cabernets Sauvignon & Franc, Merlot, and Shiraz. In the vineyard, yields are restricted to a maximum of 2.5 tons per acre.

Yea is a considered a cool sub-region within the Australian context. Long autumn days contribute to even ripening and complex flavour profiles. Substantial swings in temperature from day to night, and the extended length of the growing season assure fruit with great acidity and beautiful balance. Yea is about 30 minutes north of Yarra Valley, just north-east of Melbourne.

Only three red wines are produced, Wilhelmina Pinot Noir from the oldest vines on the estate, Thousand Hills Shiraz, and the flagship Sier's Field, a stunning blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot & Cabernet Franc. The character of the wines is testament to the commitment of Rees Miller to take care in their vineyard to grow top quality fruit, and then not mess it up in the winery. The wines are full-flavoured with impressive finesse.

www.reesmiller.com
 

A couple of former marine biologists are making some of the best Pinot Noir in New Zealand. Gary Voss & Annette Atkins established Voss Estate in the north-island region of Martinborough in 1988. They produce about 2500 cases of wine from 10 hectares of estate vineyards, about 70% of which is Pinot Noir, the balance being Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Syrah, & Cabernet. Without a doubt Pinot Noir has become the Kiwi wine to which the world is paying attention, and the cooler microclimate of Martinborough is often considered to be the best place in New Zealand to grow Pinot Noir.

Believing that great wine starts in the vineyard, maximum effort is spent amongst the vines to produce the best quality fruit.  Close planting with the best vine clones, bunch thinning, leaf plucking and hand harvesting help produce individualistic wines with intense ripe flavours.  Minimal processing in the winery further enhances the natural flavours.

Almost all of Voss' vineyards in the famous Martinborough Terraces were planted in 1988. A small amount of fruit from the later­ripening, nearby Te Muna district adds interest to the wines.

At the New Zealand Wine Fair in Toronto, May 2004, Voss Estate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were exceptionally well-received. Many tasters commented that they were the top wines of the show. Great reinforcenment for us in our selection of Voss as our New Zealand supplier.

www.vossestate.co.nz

We have always felt that the Pennachetti/Pavan partnership was the source for some of  Canada's highest quality wines, and we have often cited Cave Spring Cellars as an example of the international calibre of wines that can be produced locally. Perhaps as a bonus to the character of the wines, the pricing policy of Cave Spring makes these wines tremendous value. I challenge our clients to compare wines such as CSV Chardonnay, CSV Riesling, Reserve Riesling, and 'Bench' Chardonnay with comparably-priced wines from anywhere in the world, and see for yourselves where the best buys exist.

With vineyards planted to vinifera varieties in 1974, Cave Spring has built a reputation on producing distinctive wines that are becoming even more true to their sense of place as the winery matures. Angelo Pavan is a serious, and talented winemaker, who has become a mentor for the newer generation of Ontario's industry. Len Pennachetti is currently president of VQA.

Obviously, we are thrilled to offer these great wines to our licensee clients. For the complete winery profile, including info on dining and accommodation follow the links to www.cavespringcellars.com